DSRL and camerawork research

After 2008, when Nikon released the first camera that could record video, more and more manufacturers started adding the feature to their cameras. Now DSLR cameras are very popular amongst independent filmmakers as it is a more affordable option and by using different lenses, filters, and other attachments you can create a cinematic look (Andersson, 2015:1). They are lighter than professional film cameras, are more discrete, great at capturing images with low light (some even better than professional cameras) and by using different lenses and rigs you can achieve a different look to most films. However, DSLRs are made for taking stills rather than filming, so they do have their setbacks, but it's nothing you can't work around. 

DSLRs come in a big variety of cameras to choose from. Some things to consider while picking out a camera to use is the sensor size. There's a full-frame sensor and a non-full-frame sensor, commonly referred to as a crop sensor. A full-frame sensor is approximately the size of a single frame of 35mm film and the crop sensor is smaller than the 35mm frame. A crop sensor used with a standard 35mm frame lens can create a magnifying look, knowing this is very important as depending on the size of your set you might not be able to get the wide shot you desire (Andersson, 2015:3-4). The biggest benefit of using a camera with a full-frame sensor is that its more light-sensitive, which in turn creates less noise and helps to get a narrow depth of field (DOF) making the shot look more cinematic (Andersson, 2015:6-7).

The other thing to consider is the ISO. It represents how sensitive the sensor is to the light. "The higher your ISO, the more sensitive the image sensor is, thus increasing your ability to get shots in low-light situations. By raising your ISO rating to shoot with less light, you will be adding more noise or video grain into your image." (Andersson, 2015:9). Noise is seen as coloured pixels, especially on the black or dark parts of the image. A similar thing can be seen on film but it's called grain, however, grain can be acceptable, but noise is frowned upon (Andersson, 2015:9).

When choosing a camera, make sure that you can control:

• Shutter speed;
• F-stop;
• Aperture;
• ISO;
• Frame rate;
• Kelvin temperature. (Andersson, 2015:29)

When working with a DSLR, lenses are very important. The safest lens to use if you only can afford one is the 50mm lens, as it is described as having the view most similar to the human eye (Andersson, 2015:30). Other lens options are:
Prime lenses: they have a fixed focal length, meaning they only have one angle of view. When using prime lenses it's important to have at least a few with versatile focal lengths. "If you have no prime lenses and you want to start with three lenses, it would behoove you to grab a wide-angle lens, a “normal” lens, and a portrait or telephoto lens.", "You would be better off with something like a 24 mm for your wide, a 50 mm for your normal, and a 100 or 135 for your portrait/telephoto lens."(Andersson, 2015:12-13)
Zoom Lenses: Zoom lenses have a range of focal lengths for a single lens and are named by the ratio of their longest to shortest focal lengths on their magnification factor."for example, an 18– 70 mm lens will cover the focal lengths between 18 mm and 70 mm."(Andersson, 2015:13)

Specialty lenses are usually limited to big budget films, but more and more filmmakers are using them:
Macro Lenses: are very important when filming something where the smallest details are crucial. (Andersson, 2015:14)
Fish-eye lenses: distorts the image to show 180 view.(Andersson, 2015:14)
Tilt/Shift Lenses: "These are distinctive because they move side to side (laterally) and up and down (vertically) while allowing for a coherent image to be captured with the sensor." (Andersson, 2015:14)
Anamorphic Lenses: "Anamorphic lenses are often used with DSLR filmmaking to achieve unique lens flare and bokeh.<...> When you use an anamorphic lens, your horizontal image will be up to two times wider than a standard 16×9 frame so you will have letterboxing on the top and bottom of your image."(Andersson, 2015:17)

Filters:

Neutral-Density Filters: or ND filters, mostly used while filming outside to control how much light comes into the lens so the image isn't overexposed (Andersson, 2015:35).

Polarizing Filters: helps to minimize the glair on reflective surfaces such as windows, metal, water(Andersson, 2015:36).

Diffusion Filters: The effect given by the filter can be described as dreamy or hazy. It's used to soften skin and reduce the appearance of imperfections(Andersson, 2015:36).

Contrast Filters: are used to adjust the ratio between highlights and shadows (Andersson, 2015:36).

Colour Filters: adds overall colour change to the shot(Andersson, 2015:36).

Other attachments/gear:
Matte box: lets further control how much light comes into the lens and has a slot for filters where they can be stacked or rotated(Andersson, 2015:34-35). 

Clapboard: is meant to sync sound to the image. "Another option is to have someone clap their hands (like an alligator clap) and be the human version of a slate. As long as the person is in clear view and claps fast, this can be a good trick if you are in a bind."(Andersson, 2015:49-50), which is what we did in our shoot as we didn't bring one.

As mentioned before, there are a big range of DSLRs to chose from when it comes to using one for a shoot, however, I could only use a Canon 7D, which according to Barry Andersson and Janie L. Geyen in their book The DSLR Filmmaker's Handbook : Real-World Production Techniques, is more suited to someone who is interested in both stills and video, rather than just video (Andersson, 2015:28). I also didn't have much choice when it came to lenses, which isn't necessarily a bad thing as this was my first time using a DSLR camera for a project, as I usually tried sticking with the 4K Panasonic that I knew well from all the workshops we've done on the course, so having to choose from numerous lenses would have been a little overwhelming. 

As I wasn't as familiar with the camera, it took a bit of time to figure it out and become comfortable with the layout of the buttons, menu and overall the different capabilities of the camera. Good thing I had time to practice with the camera before the shoot, as it is essential to test your equipment prior to the shoot (Andersson, 2015:66). Ideally, I wish I had access to practice the camera functions and angles at the locations we ended up filming it, as it would have saved us some time with finding the right speed for track and dolly shots, as well as to see what kind of lighting we'd have/need to achieve the look we wanted to.

 One of the things I missed on the camera, that all of the cameras I used prior to this had, was peaking. At first I found it really hard to get the sharp focus I wanted on objects, because it doesn't have peaking and you can't use the technique of zooming in all the way and focusing on the object or a person's eyes, as when you zoom out while using a DSLR you will lose the focus. However, I found out that it has multiple layers of magnification where the camera can digitally zoom in x10, which allows the operator to get a sharp focus easier and make sure that the subject stays in focus (Andersson, 2015:277).

 Another thing that can be seen as good or bad is the fact that DSLRs are very light compared to professional cameras. The good part is that its easier to transport and takes up little space, you can get in places where you couldn't if you were using a Panasonic DVX for example. However, that also means, that the image is going to be shakier when filming handheld, meaning that you need an attachment to help stabilize it (Andersson, 2015). 

I used a fig rig to help and balance out the shakiness, as the manufacturer Manfrotto has put in their description: "As the operator walks, his/her muscles and tendons absorb all the shocks, transferring only fluid movements to the camera. As there are no straps or harnesses attached to the Fig Rig, quick and wide movements can be made within the same shot – from ground-level to overhead, in one smooth movement."(Manfrotto.com.br, 2019).

Another thing that was really crucial to our shoot was motion. As our goal was to complete a montage, motion played a big part when filming. Director and I discussed what kind of motion is needed and what speed might represent in the edit. Having movement in the shots helps to keep the viewer's attention as well as acts as an eye candy, because well-done movements make the film more interesting and more pleasing to watch (Andersson, 2015:138).

Overall, I chose to use a DSLR for this unit to get to know the camera better and to see how well I can achieve the look I want to. My feelings for this camera changed throughout the day. May it have to do something with me being sick or just overall not a morning person, if someone asked me what I thought of using a DSLR in the morning I would have answered that that was my biggest mistake and that I will never work with the camera again after this project, but at the end of the day, I warmed up to it and would definitely consider using the camera again. Most probably not for my final film, but for something that required flexibility and low light capabilities.  Especially I'd like to get my hands on on the different lenses and filters.

Bibliography:
Andersson, B. (2015). The DSLR filmmaker's handbook. 2nd ed. Indianapolis: John Wiley & Sons.
Manfrotto.com.br. (2019). Fig Rig 595B - Fig Rig | Manfrotto. [online] Available at: http://www.manfrotto.com.br/fig-rig.html [Accessed 10 May 2019].